The Jeep is pulled up under the shade of a monkey-puzzle, fifty yards from the watering hole. You and the other tourists wait, breath held, as the crickets sing in the dusk. The lioness and her cub, who was drinking from the water for the last few minutes, looks up towards you. You freeze, caught for a second in the power of her stare, hypnotized by the green flash of her eyes. Then she stretches and is gone into the darkening savannah.
The horizon is a band of red gold, giving way to peach and oceanic blue and a spatter of stars.
‘Ok,’ says the guide, ‘let’s go.’
There is a cab in the Jeep where the other tourists ride, but you stay out on the tail. You close your eyes, bathe in the warm air and the fragrance of the land. You are overcome by a sense of peace, of silence.
Then the wheel hits a rut and you are thrown into the night. You fall quickly, awkwardly. There is a pain like thunder in your leg. You pass out.